Weddingbee

During our honeymoon in Japan last year, I was struck by the collision of traditional and modern Tokyo. Somehow, two contradictory energies coexist within this megacity:

• the zen and beauty that lingers from an older era of quiet and responsible propriety (”tatemae“)
• the urgency of a new consumer culture and the bizarre madness of Tokyo’s fun-loving youth

Modern Tokyo (click on images to enlarge for detail)

L: Night time near Kabuki-cho (the official red light district)
M: Tokyo rail station. Rush hour in Tokyo is insane!
R: The streets of Ginza are off-limits to cars on Sunday, encouraging more foot traffic in the shopping area

One of our favorite activities in Tokyo was… people watching! The urban youth dress outlandishly and often identify with a particular fashion tribe.

Some tribes I saw included: the Goths/ punks, some who paint their faces white; the Gunguro girls in Shibuya with super-tanned skin, bleach-blond hair, caked-on makeup, and color contacts; the Hiphop group, who wear baggy styles; the Clowns, who dress up like colorful clowns complete with curly wigs; the Cosplay (”costume play”) group, who dress up in various character and anime costumes; and more.

Modern Tokyo is chock-full of unique and bizarre idiosyncrasies. Tourists may spot something crazy and ask “Why?”, but the philosophy of this city seems to be “Why not?!” Here are just a few of the oddities that we came across, or at least the ones that were rated “G.”

TL: There are 2.7 million beverage vending machines in Tokyo.
BL: Cheesecake sticks! Best snack idea ever
M: Manga (anime comics) at a bookstore in Akihabara Electric Town
R: Sakura (cherry blossoms) + food coloring display in a store

Another curious phenomenon in Tokyo is “love hotels,” which can be identified by the dual rate system for either a short “rest” or an overnight stay. Many of the love hotels feature themed rooms (from S&M chambers to Hello Kitty shrines), discreet entrances, and small or covered windows.

Although I’m sure a percentage of the “rests” involve Eliot Spitzer types, many love hotel patrons are actually normal, everyday people. In Japan, it’s common for young adults to continue living with their parents until marriage. Due to the lack of privacy at home, legitimate couples often seek privacy at love hotels.

Mr. Ant and I browsed the photos of variously themed rooms on Love Hotel Hill near Shibuya, but there was no interest in taking a “rest,” especially when we had several nights booked at the luxurious Park Hotel Tokyo in the futuristic Shiodome district.

L: Our premium king bed was soo comfortable
M: The hotel is a short walk to the Tsukiji fish market
R: The stunning view from our room

I know it sounds strange, but the nifty bathroom was one of the highlights of our stay. Oh, how I miss the anti-fog mirror, the heated toilet seats, and the jet “cleaning” features! The Japanese are so damn clever. Needless to say, modern Tokyo was a fascinating and remarkable experience.

Previously in this series: * Traditional Tokyo
Coming up next: * Mt. Fuji and Hakone, * Tokyo Food: Honorable Mentions, and * Top 4 Tokyo Meals

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