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Mrs. Perfume, DC Age and Occupation: 36, Consultant (and Part-Time Professor) Fiance's Age and Occupation: 41, Consultant Engagement Date: May 13, 2008 Wedding Date: May, 2009 Venue: The Homestead, Hot Springs, Virginia About Me: I'd like to think that I'm a modern day Little Edie Beale. Only not as..."talented". More realistically, I'm a foodie who can't bake; a dancer and dilettente; an art collector with a penchant for the whimsical and subversive. I live in the city and adore the country, but not much in between. I like smart design, great craftmanship and good value. Most of all, I love the new vintage aesthetic: classic, sweet, delicate, bespoke. If I had to do it all over again, I'd go for a culinary arts degree rather than a PhD; but wouldn't trade Mr. P for the world.
About Mrs. Perfume

“Maybe some other time of year, Venice.”

Recall in the previous installment, I dropped the camera doing my signature side-veritas shots in Portofino. Idiot. But there was still one more city–Venice–on our itinerary. How sad would it be to not capture Venice for posterity? Well, maybe not that sad. The problem was the LCD panel on the camera wasn’t working — so we couldn’t see what we were taking pictures of. I didn’t want to buy another camera, but I didn’t want to miss the rest of our honeymoon either! So I took my chances and snapped images randomly. Most were blurry…

as the macro function was on (so only close-ups were clear).

Maybe it didn’t matter. Because, I gotta say, we were loathe to be in Venice. The first thing that hits you is the chaotic, giant parking lot filled with confused tourists waiting to get on the water taxis. We stayed in the Academia area of the lagoon. It was quiet and peaceful, I must say. But on our last night there, a water main broke, and we couldn’t shower. They gave us bottled water. So we washed our faces and did a sort of towel bath. How romantic.

Moving on… ostensibly, we were there to see the art biennale, but the crowds were crushing and it had the overall feel of a giant tourist trap with watered down menus. There were actually signs that read, “Menu Touristico”. Really. So we spent most of our two days there hiding in back alleyways and coming out at dusk. Like vampires, I guess. But the crowds were non-existent early morning and early evening.

Doesn’t Mr. P’s face say it all?

I will say that the light was always perfect. Here, I am on Plaza San Marco the second evening. It was actually quiet, and images of Katherine Hepburn in ’Summertime’ flashed before my eyes…

We also went to the Peggy Guggenheim, which was just a few steps away from our hotel. And it was lovely. Here we are on the museum’s veranda (as captured through the lens of a busted camera.) And one afternoon, on a way back alley, we found a little spot, with no one around and no menu touristico. The food was magnificent. Here’s a salad of grilled octopus with orange and fennel.

And on our last night there, we had a nice meal on the patio in a neighborhood close to ours…

… which included a little ravioli

… and Champagne. We learned to like the spumantes and Perseccos, but there’s nothing like the real deal. Sacrilege, perhaps, given we were in Italy. But we were at that point tired and a bit disappointed (though still basking in our newly married status), and needed some comfort…

I think we need to go back to Venice one Fall. The locals say that it’s the best time of year, as the tourists wind down and things are still open. So, perhaps, on some anniversary, we will get to see Venice for all its beauty.

Overall, I really enjoyed our honeymoon. Mr. P did a great job. We relaxed, recuperated, and enjoyed some wonderful food and memories!

*****

HIGHLIGHTS (for those who are interested):

BELLAGIO

  1. Hotel Florence for accommodations and dinner
  2. Mistral for dinner. The one Michelin-starred restaurant has a great 6-7 course tasting menu and the service is definitely professional.
  3. Bilacus for dinner. Okay food; very romantic ambience. Get the corner table overlooking the steps.
  4. Villa Balbianello. A must see.
  5. The point. A back area above the town where the locals live and you can get a glimpse of the bay and village life. Very sweet.

ITALIAN RIVIERA

  1. Santa Margarita Ligure. Stay in this town rather than Portofino, as it is a little more exciting and less expensive.
  2. Grande Hotel Miramare. Great views of the ocean, its own beach club, old school charm, great service.
  3. Eat along any of sidewalk places to people watch.
  4. Manuelina in Recco. An out of the way place in an ugly town with FABULOUS food. Family-owned, it’s where the locals go. And they invented the famous focaccia formaggio. Out of this world.
  5. Market in Camogli. Just visit Camogli. It’s beautiful in a non-glamorous way.
  6. Portofino. Stay at the Splendido if your pockets are heavy. They’ll be lightened tremendously. Great shopping. A little touristy.

VENICE

  1. Skip it. Just kidding.
  2. Get lost in the vast maze of alleys
  3. Avoid menu touristico
  4. Harry’s for a drink
  5. A gondola ride along the smaller canals

******************************

La Dolce Vita Part 1: Bellagio
La Dolce Vita Part 2: Italian Riviera

Tags: |   Link for this post | Share this post: La Dolce Vita Honeymoon Part 3: Venice, You’ll Either Love It or Hate It      
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46 Responses to “La Dolce Vita Honeymoon Part 3: Venice, You’ll Either Love It or Hate It”

1.
Miss Sapphire
Member
Miss Sapphire (message)  625 posts, Busy bee

Aw, Venice is one of my favorite cities, but I even agree that there are times to go and times not to go. I love it there!

 
2.
LatteLove
Hostess
LatteLove (message)  4,120 posts, Honey bee

Oh, I’m sad you guys didn’t enjoy Venice. DH and I were in the “love it” camp of people.

we just couldn’t get enough of it. But we stayed in a great family owned hotel with only 12 rooms in a very quiet area, and had no water main problems.
We also picked our restaurants carefully (we found this a lot more in Florence too)..how less delicious and more expensive the food i close to the big attractions. So we saw the sights, but usually traveled to the back alleys for some very good food! (Rick Steves helped us out here)

I hope you go back another time and love it more!

 
3.
Sage
Member
Sage (message)  398 posts, Helper bee

My fiance wants so badly to go to Venice. Maybe I’ll show him this post ;)
I was there for a day and enjoyed it, but I was only 16 and what’s not cool then??

 
4.
thefuturemrsjewell
Member
thefuturemrsjewell (message)  1,534 posts, Bumble bee

Mrs. Perfume, you and Mr. P are so adorable! I’m sorry Venice wasn’t your fav, but I’ve loved having you back in the Hive and recapping for us! Sounds like your honeymoon was wonderful!

 
5.
fiftyfootbride
Member
fiftyfootbride (message)  3,809 posts, Honey bee

You are so lovely, dear.

AND, I hate Venice. Hate hate. :p
I think it’s a place people need to visit, but I am *so* not a fan. :)

 
6.
Bee Icon
Bee
Mrs. Peep Toe (message)  1,636 posts, Bumble bee

Oh no. I am so so sad that you didn’t have a good time in Venice. I loved it!! But then again, I don’t remember it being that toursity and it was 9 years ago that I went.

 
7.
Mrs. Penguin
Bee
Mrs. Penguin (message)  2,149 posts, Buzzing bee

Like you, I liked Venice the least on our trip to Italy (the town of Siena was my fave). I do feel like I would have missed out if we didn’t go, though. And you’re right. The first sight of that Disneyland parking lot is enough to make you barf a little in your mouth. That’s when you realize it’s not going to be as romantic as you pictured it. I’d love to go during a quieter time of the year as well! I know it’s super lovely, but I just couldn’t deal with the over touristyness of it all.

 
8.
Miss Bear Cub
Bee
Miss Bear Cub (message)  1,354 posts, Bumble bee

omg I totally agree with you. Mr. BC went to venice several years ago, and happened upon a rowdy group of frat boys chugging or some whatnot. He figured he should give the city another chance when we were in Italy a few years go. all I can say is blech! We cut our 2-day visit to 1 day. Menu turistico? no grazie!

 
9.
Bee Icon
Bee
Mrs. Perfume (message)  1,640 posts, Bumble bee

@Miss Sapphire: @LatteLove: @Mrs. Peep Toe: !@Sage: We need to experience Venice the way you did. There must be a better season than peak summer

@thefuturemrsjewell: Aw, you’re too kind! I’ve been really bad about posting.

@fiftyfootbride: @Mrs. Penguin: @Miss Bear Cub: You guys crack me up! Yes, a place you *have* to see, but judge for yourself. @Mrs. Penguin: Throw up in you own mouth indeed!

 
10.
Guest Icon
Guest
M

Oh no, I was just in Venice a few weekends ago and it makes me so sad that you didn’t love it! Definitely stick to your plan and try again during late September or October…you will enjoy it much more, I promise :)

 
11.
Bee Icon
Bee
Miss French Fries (message)  737 posts, Busy bee

I looks like you got some great pictures, even without being able to see what you were taking pictures of! :)

 
12.
fiftyfootbride
Member
fiftyfootbride (message)  3,809 posts, Honey bee

@Mrs. Perfume: In my first day in Venice, I got cussed out by an Italian man on one of the water taxis. Apparently my giant LV bumped his arm. Hello, we were packed in that thing like sardines.
Then, about an hour later, I saw some American tourists with a four-year old boy. They bought some birdseed from one of those vendors. I knew it wasn’t gonna end well. The mother and father got out their video camera, and told the child to open the bag of seed and feed the birds. The SECOND the first seeds fell, homeboy got ATTACKED by all of the pidgeons. The father was still filming, didn’t realize what was going on. Mother flipped out.

It was simultaneously horrifying and hilarious. Kid ended up being covered by bird poop, and I’m sure now has a serious fear of birds. :p

 
13.
Miss Poodle
Bee
Miss Poodle (message)  3,020 posts, Sugar bee

This is one of the places I would love to go no matter what! hehe

 
14.
sassypants
Member
sassypants (message)  110 posts, Blushing bee

I LOVED Venice. We went last August and I didn’t think it was any more touristy than other places we have been. I’m surprised to read about all the bad/mediocre reviews… I am dying to go back and cannot wait to do so.

 
15.
Bee Icon
Bee
Mrs. Perfume (message)  1,640 posts, Bumble bee

@fiftyfootbride: oh good lord. dare i say it’s ripe for cliched photo opportunities (and disasters)1

@Miss Poodle: yes, don’t let this post deter you!

 
16.
Bee Icon
Bee
Mrs. Swan (message)  389 posts, Helper bee

I definitely think Europe in general is great in off seasons if you can get there. I’ve never been to Venice, but I feel like I gotta go at some point. Thanks for the restaurant recs!

 
17.
El Capataz
Member
El Capataz (message)  272 posts, Helper bee

I think I would freak out if I lose my camera or gets damaged. I’m actually bringing 3 to the honeymoon.

Go to Venice in late September or early October and you’ll enjoy it so much more.

 
18.
ColorCoated
Member
ColorCoated (message)  951 posts, Busy bee

I’ve always wanted to visit Venice :)

 
19.
Bee Icon
Bee
Mrs. Mouse (message)  3,354 posts, Sugar bee

I’ve been to Italy twice, but never to Venice. I’d love to go there at some point, so thanks for warning me not to go in the summer!

 
20.
Bee Icon
Bee
Miss Moonbeam (message)  1,335 posts, Bumble bee

There aren’t many people that actually live in Venice, because it’s so expensive and pretty inconvenient. So, it’s inherently touristy. But I love your ‘artfully cropped’ shots. When I was in Venice, our friends blind cousin was visiting him, so I gave him our camera, some of them were fun.

 
21.
mountain.bride
Member
mountain.bride (message)  195 posts, Blushing bee

Oh, that’s sad! We spent a few days in Venice in late October and it was lovely - definitely worth another trip sometime :)

 
22.
staceyb
Member
staceyb (message)  245 posts, Helper bee

i got engaged in venice, right near the guggenheim! so that being said, i have a fond spot in my heart for venice…

but other than that, it was a disaster! it rained, we were stranded twice cause bus routes were canceled because of the rain, my husband couldn’t propose where he wanted cause of the flooding… so we have a love/hate relationship with venice. :)

we decided we will never come to venice by car/bus/plane again. only by cruise ship!

 
23.
Guest Icon
Guest
Lauren

I so agree with you — EVERYWHERE in Italy is so much more pleasant! Also, San Marco (while beautiful) seriously became my worst nightmare — between the mass amounts of people and the BIRDS…

 
24.
Bee Icon
Bee
Miss Ramen (message)  263 posts, Helper bee

I know it sucked that your camera broke… but those pictures are STILL awesome - super artsy looking! Again. totally jealous of your trip. Someday….

 
25.
fiftyfootbride
Member
fiftyfootbride (message)  3,809 posts, Honey bee

@Miss Poodle: You should definitely go, but stay away from the birdseed! :p

 
26.
Jessie516
Hostess
Jessie516 (message)  4,044 posts, Honey bee

Thanks for the Italy tips. I’ve never been, but it’s on my Must-Visit list.

 
27.
texaslawgirl
Member
texaslawgirl (message)  553 posts, Busy bee

This is so shocking to me! When I went to Venice for the first time, it was akin to a religious experience for me (I know that might sound dramatic…). But it was the most magical, dream-like, incredible city I’ve ever been to. It was like living inside a dream for me. We took a midnight gondola ride where the gondolier showed us the sunken doorsteps from a hundred years before, we ate gelato in St. Mark’s square at 3 AM and listened to dueling violinists play classical music. When we got on the first water taxi and we came around the bend and I saw the Rialto, I burst into tears. My fondest memories of Italy are of my time in Venice.

 
28.
krissycake
Member
krissycake (message)  2,092 posts, Buzzing bee

i’ve never been to italy…or europe, for that matter. thanks for sharing =)

 
29.
Bee Icon
Bee
Mrs. Perfume (message)  1,640 posts, Bumble bee

@Miss French Fries: @Miss Moonbeam: @Miss Ramen: Thanks! Funny how much better pictures are when you don’t know what you’re seeing…

@krissycake: @Jessie516: @Mrs. Mouse: @ColorCoated: @mountain.bride: @staceyb: No problem. Again, Venice deserves a revisit.

@El Capataz: Three! That’s fabulous and probably smart come to think of it!

@texaslawgirl: That sounds magical. Wish I had that experience.

@staceyb: Still, how fantastically romantic to get engaged on the lagoon!?

 
30.
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Guest
kewpie

wow! mrs P, you look soooo youthful!! I would never have guessed that you are over 30!! please share your secrets!!!!!!!!

 
31.
Mochacoca
Member
Mochacoca (message)  38 posts, Newbee

Mrs. Perfume, you and hubby look great and relaxed on your honeymoon. I can’t wait for when we go on our because it will be in Europe too. We spend a lot of time there so you will think we should have seen all of Europe by now but there is so much history and so much to see!

I totally agree with your assessment of Venice. When Mr. Mochacoca and I went there in 2007 saw everything in one day. I couldn’t imagine spending more than 2 days in Venice. I am glad I did it though it is always great to explore other cities.

 
32.
mrspaetz
Member
mrspaetz (message)  1,707 posts, Bumble bee

Ms P, you have some mad skillz even with a busted camera :D

 
33.
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Bee
Mrs. Espresso (message)  1,064 posts, Bumble bee

You two look like international, jet setting, movie stars. Classic and gorgeous in every pic. And I’m saving your recommendations for when we go one day :)

 
34.
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Bee
Mrs. Canary (message)  637 posts, Busy bee

The Peggy Guggenheim is one of my favorite museums in the entire world. I love how intimate it feels. And I agree, Venice is definitely not one of my favorite Italian cities, but the bounty of art it has makes up for it. You still managed to get some awesome photos, Mrs. P! And as always you and Mr. P look spectacular!

 
35.
Guest Icon
Guest
Sarah

I hated Venice so much. So much! I went on a chorus trip that had a lot of free time built in, so it wasn’t scheduled to-the-minute, and we could periodically fudge the schedule if we needed or wanted to.

So we get to Venice on a Monday the day before the concert, and the conductor says we’ll talk later about whether we want to catch the train to the next town Thursday afternoon or evening.

Tuesday at intermission, she says “Who wants to get the hell out of here tomorrow morning?” It was unanimous. We happily packed that night.

 
36.
Bee Icon
Bee
Mrs. Perfume (message)  1,640 posts, Bumble bee

@kewpie: I have plenty of wrinkles! But here’s what helps: 1) Retinol 2) Mac Studio Fix 3) Photoshop 4) being Asian and 5) having a big round face.

@Mochacoca: Thanks, Mocha! Hope you have fun when you go on yours!!!@mrspaetz: I think the key to busted camera photography is taking a gazillion shots. You’re bound to get a handful of okay ones!

@Mrs. Espresso: Ms. Dimples! You’re too sweet. I laughed when I read your comment because we are so the opposite of that!

@Mrs. Canary: Thank you! And I wish we could have seen more art…(including what was at the biennale).

@Sarah: What did you hate so much? That’s a funny story!

 
37.
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Bee
Miss Parfait (message)  624 posts, Busy bee

Yay, happy to hear more from you, Mrs. P! Thanks for the highlights!

 
38.
pvaulter718
Member
pvaulter718 (message)  1,604 posts, Bumble bee

I would love to at least spend a day in Venice, just to be able to say I’ve been there. But, as I discovered with most of my Paris vacay - lots of things are more fun when it’s the offseason!

 
39.
alishaneva
Member
alishaneva (message)  1,531 posts, Bumble bee

Sucks that venice wasn’t great … but it seems like you still had great attitudes about it - and that’s what matters! Thanks for the highlights - it’s good to have this info come time to plan our honeymoon!

 
40.
Guest Icon
Guest
Jenny

It’s funny that you should say that you were disappointed in Venice because when I lived in Italy a few years back, we would hope the train to Venice everyone once in a while and it has to be by far my least favorite city in Italy and i’ve been to a lot of different places. No matter what time of year you go, it really is tourist driven - you see the prix fix menus every where and to me it’s just a waste of time - although it was fun to be there for Carnivale and there is an awesome mask shop by the Rialto. I would prefer Verona & Padova over Venice (other cities in the Veneto Region). Your highlights were awesome - as was the way you set them up in show that was very cool - and it was so beautiful in Bellagio & the Italian Riviera - it makes me want to go back everytime i see photos of Italy.

 
41.
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Bee
Mrs. Quiche (message)  2,186 posts, Buzzing bee

I’m sorry you didn’t have the best experience there! I loved Venice… :)

 
42.
tea
Member
tea (message)  2,659 posts, Sugar bee

you still managed to take some great pictures, busted camera and all! i hope the next time you’re in venice you have a much better experience!

 
43.
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Bee
Mrs. Green Tea (message)  705 posts, Busy bee

thank you so much for the italy breakdown, we’d been planning a trip there for 3 years now but each year something came up. we’re really hoping to go next september, and now we know we can skip venice.

and i am dying for your recaps, when are those coming?!?!

 
44.
Bee Icon
Bee
Mrs. Perfume (message)  1,640 posts, Bumble bee

@Mrs. Green Tea: Maybe you can drive through Venice? Or not.

Regarding the recaps, does this honeymoon series count? Okay, they’re coming!@tea: Ha, thanks.

@Mrs. Quiche: Maybe it would have been better if I were there studying architecture (and more of a focus). ;)

@Jenny: @alishaneva: I’m glad you liked them and perhaps they’re useful!!

@pvaulter718: True, true.

 
45.
Guest Icon
Guest
Erin

Loved this post. I’ve always felt guilty saying it, but I didn’t really enjoy Venice. Drinking wine with my girlfriends and laughing until the wee hours of the night - amazing! The city - not so much! I went in the spring, maybe March - tourists weren’t as bad as you were describing, but I still did not enjoy the city. I’ve loved both the Riviera and Florence. Thanks for a great honeymoon series :)

 
46.
Tulips
Member
Tulips (message)  37 posts, Newbee

Our wedding was held in Venice this past September, and it was perfect. Fall really is the best time to go. The weather was still warm, but no longer so hot and humid that your makeup and hair would melt. We loved getting lost in the narrow alleys. It’s the best way to experience Venice, and besides, its inevitable. Glad to know that you and Mr. Perfume liked it too.

 


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Mrs. Perfume
Mrs. Perfume Mrs. Perfume, DC Age and Occupation: 36, Consultant (and Part-Time Professor) Fiance's Age and Occupation: 41, Consultant Engagement Date: May 13, 2008 Wedding Date: May, 2009 Venue: The Homestead, Hot Springs, Virginia About Me: I'd like to think that I'm a modern day Little Edie Beale. Only not as..."talented". More realistically, I'm a foodie who can't bake; a dancer and dilettente; an art collector with a penchant for the whimsical and subversive. I live in the city and adore the country, but not much in between. I like smart design, great craftmanship and good value. Most of all, I love the new vintage aesthetic: classic, sweet, delicate, bespoke. If I had to do it all over again, I'd go for a culinary arts degree rather than a PhD; but wouldn't trade Mr. P for the world.
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