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Mrs. Perfume, DC Age and Occupation: 36, Consultant (and Part-Time Professor) Fiance's Age and Occupation: 41, Consultant Engagement Date: May 13, 2008 Wedding Date: May, 2009 Venue: The Homestead, Hot Springs, Virginia About Me: I'd like to think that I'm a modern day Little Edie Beale. Only not as..."talented". More realistically, I'm a foodie who can't bake; a dancer and dilettente; an art collector with a penchant for the whimsical and subversive. I live in the city and adore the country, but not much in between. I like smart design, great craftmanship and good value. Most of all, I love the new vintage aesthetic: classic, sweet, delicate, bespoke. If I had to do it all over again, I'd go for a culinary arts degree rather than a PhD; but wouldn't trade Mr. P for the world.
About Mrs. Perfume

La Dolce Vita Honeymoon Part 3: Venice, You'll Either Love It or Hate It :  wedding honeymoon Img 864

“Maybe some other time of year, Venice.”

Recall in the previous installment, I dropped the camera doing my signature side-veritas shots in Portofino. Idiot. But there was still one more city–Venice–on our itinerary. How sad would it be to not capture Venice for posterity? Well, maybe not that sad. The problem was the LCD panel on the camera wasn’t working — so we couldn’t see what we were taking pictures of. I didn’t want to buy another camera, but I didn’t want to miss the rest of our honeymoon either! So I took my chances and snapped images randomly. Most were blurry…

La Dolce Vita Honeymoon Part 3: Venice, You'll Either Love It or Hate It :  wedding honeymoon Img 86401

as the macro function was on (so only close-ups were clear).

La Dolce Vita Honeymoon Part 3: Venice, You'll Either Love It or Hate It :  wedding honeymoon Img 852

Maybe it didn’t matter. Because, I gotta say, we were loathe to be in Venice. The first thing that hits you is the chaotic, giant parking lot filled with confused tourists waiting to get on the water taxis. We stayed in the Academia area of the lagoon. It was quiet and peaceful, I must say. But on our last night there, a water main broke, and we couldn’t shower. They gave us bottled water. So we washed our faces and did a sort of towel bath. How romantic.

Moving on… ostensibly, we were there to see the art biennale, but the crowds were crushing and it had the overall feel of a giant tourist trap with watered down menus. There were actually signs that read, “Menu Touristico”. Really. So we spent most of our two days there hiding in back alleyways and coming out at dusk. Like vampires, I guess. But the crowds were non-existent early morning and early evening.

La Dolce Vita Honeymoon Part 3: Venice, You'll Either Love It or Hate It :  wedding honeymoon Img 865

Doesn’t Mr. P’s face say it all?

La Dolce Vita Honeymoon Part 3: Venice, You'll Either Love It or Hate It :  wedding honeymoon Img 866

I will say that the light was always perfect. Here, I am on Plaza San Marco the second evening. It was actually quiet, and images of Katherine Hepburn in ’Summertime’ flashed before my eyes…

La Dolce Vita Honeymoon Part 3: Venice, You'll Either Love It or Hate It :  wedding honeymoon Img 85201

We also went to the Peggy Guggenheim, which was just a few steps away from our hotel. And it was lovely. Here we are on the museum’s veranda (as captured through the lens of a busted camera.) And one afternoon, on a way back alley, we found a little spot, with no one around and no menu touristico. The food was magnificent. Here’s a salad of grilled octopus with orange and fennel.

La Dolce Vita Honeymoon Part 3: Venice, You'll Either Love It or Hate It :  wedding honeymoon Img 858

And on our last night there, we had a nice meal on the patio in a neighborhood close to ours…

La Dolce Vita Honeymoon Part 3: Venice, You'll Either Love It or Hate It :  wedding honeymoon Img 867

La Dolce Vita Honeymoon Part 3: Venice, You'll Either Love It or Hate It :  wedding honeymoon Img 868

… which included a little ravioli

La Dolce Vita Honeymoon Part 3: Venice, You'll Either Love It or Hate It :  wedding honeymoon Img 870

… and Champagne. We learned to like the spumantes and Perseccos, but there’s nothing like the real deal. Sacrilege, perhaps, given we were in Italy. But we were at that point tired and a bit disappointed (though still basking in our newly married status), and needed some comfort…

I think we need to go back to Venice one Fall. The locals say that it’s the best time of year, as the tourists wind down and things are still open. So, perhaps, on some anniversary, we will get to see Venice for all its beauty.

Overall, I really enjoyed our honeymoon. Mr. P did a great job. We relaxed, recuperated, and enjoyed some wonderful food and memories!

*****

HIGHLIGHTS (for those who are interested):

BELLAGIO

  1. Hotel Florence for accommodations and dinner
  2. Mistral for dinner. The one Michelin-starred restaurant has a great 6-7 course tasting menu and the service is definitely professional.
  3. Bilacus for dinner. Okay food; very romantic ambience. Get the corner table overlooking the steps.
  4. Villa Balbianello. A must see.
  5. The point. A back area above the town where the locals live and you can get a glimpse of the bay and village life. Very sweet.

ITALIAN RIVIERA

  1. Santa Margarita Ligure. Stay in this town rather than Portofino, as it is a little more exciting and less expensive.
  2. Grande Hotel Miramare. Great views of the ocean, its own beach club, old school charm, great service.
  3. Eat along any of sidewalk places to people watch.
  4. Manuelina in Recco. An out of the way place in an ugly town with FABULOUS food. Family-owned, it’s where the locals go. And they invented the famous focaccia formaggio. Out of this world.
  5. Market in Camogli. Just visit Camogli. It’s beautiful in a non-glamorous way.
  6. Portofino. Stay at the Splendido if your pockets are heavy. They’ll be lightened tremendously. Great shopping. A little touristy.

VENICE

  1. Skip it. Just kidding.
  2. Get lost in the vast maze of alleys
  3. Avoid menu touristico
  4. Harry’s for a drink
  5. A gondola ride along the smaller canals

******************************

La Dolce Vita Part 1: Bellagio
La Dolce Vita Part 2: Italian Riviera

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47 Responses to “La Dolce Vita Honeymoon Part 3: Venice, You’ll Either Love It or Hate It”

1 2 3 

1.
Miss Sapphire
Member
Miss Sapphire (message)  1,398 posts, Bumble bee

Aw, Venice is one of my favorite cities, but I even agree that there are times to go and times not to go. I love it there!

 
2.
LatteLove
Hostess
LatteLove (message)  5,590 posts, Bee Keeper

Oh, I’m sad you guys didn’t enjoy Venice. DH and I were in the “love it” camp of people.

we just couldn’t get enough of it. But we stayed in a great family owned hotel with only 12 rooms in a very quiet area, and had no water main problems.
We also picked our restaurants carefully (we found this a lot more in Florence too)..how less delicious and more expensive the food i close to the big attractions. So we saw the sights, but usually traveled to the back alleys for some very good food! (Rick Steves helped us out here)

I hope you go back another time and love it more!

 
3.
Sage
Member
Sage (message)  728 posts, Busy bee

My fiance wants so badly to go to Venice. Maybe I’ll show him this post ;)
I was there for a day and enjoyed it, but I was only 16 and what’s not cool then??

 
4.
thefuturemrsjewell
Member
thefuturemrsjewell (message)  1,829 posts, Buzzing bee

Mrs. Perfume, you and Mr. P are so adorable! I’m sorry Venice wasn’t your fav, but I’ve loved having you back in the Hive and recapping for us! Sounds like your honeymoon was wonderful!

 
5.
Bee Icon
Bee
Miss Scissors (message)  7,343 posts, Busy Beekeeper

You are so lovely, dear.

AND, I hate Venice. Hate hate. :p
I think it’s a place people need to visit, but I am *so* not a fan. :)

 
6.
Bee Icon
Bee
Mrs. Peep Toe (message)  1,804 posts, Buzzing bee

Oh no. I am so so sad that you didn’t have a good time in Venice. I loved it!! But then again, I don’t remember it being that toursity and it was 9 years ago that I went.

 
7.
Mrs. Penguin
Bee
Mrs. Penguin (message)  3,530 posts, Sugar bee

Like you, I liked Venice the least on our trip to Italy (the town of Siena was my fave). I do feel like I would have missed out if we didn’t go, though. And you’re right. The first sight of that Disneyland parking lot is enough to make you barf a little in your mouth. That’s when you realize it’s not going to be as romantic as you pictured it. I’d love to go during a quieter time of the year as well! I know it’s super lovely, but I just couldn’t deal with the over touristyness of it all.

 
8.
Miss Bear Cub
Bee
Miss Bear Cub (message)  1,566 posts, Bumble bee

omg I totally agree with you. Mr. BC went to venice several years ago, and happened upon a rowdy group of frat boys chugging or some whatnot. He figured he should give the city another chance when we were in Italy a few years go. all I can say is blech! We cut our 2-day visit to 1 day. Menu turistico? no grazie!

 
9.
Bee Icon
Bee
Mrs. Perfume (message)  2,254 posts, Buzzing bee

@Miss Sapphire: @LatteLove: @Mrs. Peep Toe: !@Sage: We need to experience Venice the way you did. There must be a better season than peak summer

@thefuturemrsjewell: Aw, you’re too kind! I’ve been really bad about posting.

@fiftyfootbride: @Mrs. Penguin: @Miss Bear Cub: You guys crack me up! Yes, a place you *have* to see, but judge for yourself. @Mrs. Penguin: Throw up in you own mouth indeed!

 
10.
Guest Icon
Guest
M

Oh no, I was just in Venice a few weekends ago and it makes me so sad that you didn’t love it! Definitely stick to your plan and try again during late September or October…you will enjoy it much more, I promise :)

 
11.
Miss French Fries
Bee
Miss French Fries (message)  2,218 posts, Buzzing bee

I looks like you got some great pictures, even without being able to see what you were taking pictures of! :)

 
12.
Bee Icon
Bee
Miss Scissors (message)  7,343 posts, Busy Beekeeper

@Mrs. Perfume: In my first day in Venice, I got cussed out by an Italian man on one of the water taxis. Apparently my giant LV bumped his arm. Hello, we were packed in that thing like sardines.
Then, about an hour later, I saw some American tourists with a four-year old boy. They bought some birdseed from one of those vendors. I knew it wasn’t gonna end well. The mother and father got out their video camera, and told the child to open the bag of seed and feed the birds. The SECOND the first seeds fell, homeboy got ATTACKED by all of the pidgeons. The father was still filming, didn’t realize what was going on. Mother flipped out.

It was simultaneously horrifying and hilarious. Kid ended up being covered by bird poop, and I’m sure now has a serious fear of birds. :p

 
13.
Miss Poodle
Bee
Miss Poodle (message)  3,386 posts, Sugar bee

This is one of the places I would love to go no matter what! hehe

 
14.
sassypants
Member
sassypants (message)  263 posts, Helper bee

I LOVED Venice. We went last August and I didn’t think it was any more touristy than other places we have been. I’m surprised to read about all the bad/mediocre reviews… I am dying to go back and cannot wait to do so.

 
15.
Bee Icon
Bee
Mrs. Perfume (message)  2,254 posts, Buzzing bee

@fiftyfootbride: oh good lord. dare i say it’s ripe for cliched photo opportunities (and disasters)1

@Miss Poodle: yes, don’t let this post deter you!

 
16.
Bee Icon
Bee
Mrs. Swan (message)  1,046 posts, Bumble bee

I definitely think Europe in general is great in off seasons if you can get there. I’ve never been to Venice, but I feel like I gotta go at some point. Thanks for the restaurant recs!

 
17.
El Capataz
Member
El Capataz (message)  294 posts, Helper bee

I think I would freak out if I lose my camera or gets damaged. I’m actually bringing 3 to the honeymoon.

Go to Venice in late September or early October and you’ll enjoy it so much more.

 
18.
Miss Giraffe
Bee
Miss Giraffe (message)  4,187 posts, Honey bee

I’ve always wanted to visit Venice :)

 
19.
Mrs. Mouse
Bee
Mrs. Mouse (message)  5,821 posts, Bee Keeper

I’ve been to Italy twice, but never to Venice. I’d love to go there at some point, so thanks for warning me not to go in the summer!

 
20.
Bee Icon
Bee
Miss Moonbeam (message)  1,732 posts, Bumble bee

There aren’t many people that actually live in Venice, because it’s so expensive and pretty inconvenient. So, it’s inherently touristy. But I love your ‘artfully cropped’ shots. When I was in Venice, our friends blind cousin was visiting him, so I gave him our camera, some of them were fun.

 
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Mrs. Perfume
Mrs. Perfume

Mrs. Perfume, DC Age and Occupation: 36, Consultant (and Part-Time Professor) Fiance's Age and Occupation: 41, Consultant Engagement Date: May 13, 2008 Wedding Date: May, 2009 Venue: The Homestead, Hot Springs, Virginia About Me: I'd like to think that I'm a modern day Little Edie Beale. Only not as..."talented". More realistically, I'm a foodie who can't bake; a dancer and dilettente; an art collector with a penchant for the whimsical and subversive. I live in the city and adore the country, but not much in between. I like smart design, great craftmanship and good value. Most of all, I love the new vintage aesthetic: classic, sweet, delicate, bespoke. If I had to do it all over again, I'd go for a culinary arts degree rather than a PhD; but wouldn't trade Mr. P for the world.

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