I really love the idea of using unique table numbers as a way of incorporating our personalities into the wedding.
I originally wanted to do tables relating to our degrees, but I could never come up with enough unique ideas for our number of tables. I’m really just not creative enough for wordplay (as you could probably tell by my awful titles).
Thus, I decided to just use numbers instead. It’s traditional. People won’t get lost. We are really more numbers people anyway. And as a minor subtle nod to the nerdy, we are starting our table count at zero. 😉
I really thought that we would just do picture frames like what a lot of people have done with their tables. However, I really wanted a numbering system that people could see from multiple sides of the table as well as from far away.
The solution? Big block numbers. There have been a lot of wedding that have used these before, so I definitely don’t think I’m being unique. I just really love the look of giant letters and I know I will probably incorporate large letters in other places in our wedding decor.
However due to a couple of different factors, I decided to make my own block numbers:
- I’m cheap. (Seriously, three bucks each? That adds up so fast.)
- There isn’t a craft store in easy public transportation range that stocks big block letters.
- I wanted more customization options.
- Have I mentioned I’m cheap?
This is about as cheap as you can get. Many of the supplies here you should have on hand or are often tossed away as trash.
Make your own block number table numbers (part 1): Tutorial originally from Green Zebra Crafts
- Word/Illustrator if you want alternative glyphs
- Cereal boxes (you can probably get one to two numbers per box)
- Glue gun/hot glue
Cost = pennies. I just used things I have around the house.
1.) Pick the font you want. I think big block letters are going to make the most sense and will be the easiest. I also recommend picking a font with numbers that have large bases as well—it’ll be a lot more stable that way.
I personally used Storybook like the tutorial, which I think is going to be a great choice for our venue. Swirly but not overly so. I don’t think you have to be stuck to one font, but I thought it was easier. (I admit, I actually used a different font-that-I-don’t-remember’s 8, because I didn’t like Storybook’s 8.)
2.) Make the letter big in a Word document. I used a font size of 500 to get six-inch-ish letters. Optional step: make the text in outline mode (in Word, highlight your text, right click, Font –> Outline; in illustrator, make your text white, and create a stroke that is black). Though not required, I think this step helps dramatically reduce the amount of ink you’re going to use, which I think is worth it.
3.) Print out number and cut it out.
4.) Trace out number and the mirror image on a cereal box. This way, you will have the same side facing outward. I saved the thin sides as strips for the sides.
5.) Cut out the numbers and long one-inch strips. You could go thicker than one inch, but I probably wouldn’t go too much thinner. I went with one inch mainly because my cereal box had two-inch sides—yup, decision making for the lazy and indecisive.
6.) Curve the strip around the number and tape in place. I used regular Scotch tape. I think it’s wise to use a lot of tape, and don’t be scared if it looks flimsy at this point. I also recommend you start in the middle of your number and radial outward. This way, it won’t be so awkward as you work and you’ll have the most space.
7.) Optional: Add a weight inside. One of the advantages to creating your own number is that you have ready access to the innards. I wanted to weigh down the numbers to insure that they stand up straight without getting knocked over. The solution: rocks. I went outside to our driveway and picked up some of the larger-sized gravel. I then hot glued the gravel in place to keep it from rocking around (haha, yeah I’m that lame). Use more hot glue than you think you need.
8.) Tape the other side on. I found that it was easiest to tape opposite ends on and then finish taping up the rest of the cardboard later.
9.) Tada! Enjoy! Cardboard letters that took less than 30 minutes per letter total and are essentially free.
I have a confession: These numbers had no backs when I took this shot.
Of course this tutorial is only part 1. I still plan on papier mache’ing the numbers to give them a little more strength, and I need to figure out how I want to decorate them. Paint or pretty paper? But that’s another post.